20' ATV/UTV Trailer

[CA_Bgrwldr]

I originally picked up the frame and about 80' of 3"x2" angle iron f\or free about 8yrs ago with plans to turn it into a car hauler for project vehicles, however,
when I looked into to wider axles for it, I was told that the 4" C channel frame rails were under the minimum recommended height of 5", so it sat waiting.


This past February, came across an ad for 3'x23' section of what appeared to be expanded metal welded to angle iron for $80, which I thought would be perfect for the center section.
However, like most "sounds to goo to be true", it was, it was a combo of a welded frame with the expanded metal bolted to it When the seller learned I was going to cut it down to haul it,
he asked if I would trade cutting up some other stuff, so I ended up with about 700lbs of steel for the cost of a 7" blade. After getting the section home and separated, I had plenty of material.

Additional cross members and out riggers welded on.


Expanded metal welded to new angle iron, in the shape of what I thought I was buying.

Started on drive over fenders.


Currently waiting for more free time, Fall clean up and winterizing irrigation equipment is taking up most of my spare time.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The photo might be sqewed a bit and not showing the correct clearance but it looks like the fenders are going to be really close to the tires. How much clearance did you allow?

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

The photo might be sqewed a bit and not showing the correct clearance but it looks like the fenders are going to be really close to the tires. How much clearance did you allow?

About 3.25" of clearance, which gives me about an 1" of clearance under full compression of the spring.

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

Made some progress over the winter.

Stake pocket with ramp mounts


Rear with inset license plate and break/tail lights.


Used the original trailer bumper to house the license plate/light and tale/break lights. I designed it to be removable, one to be able to easily access the license plate light
to replace it, and two make the fab process easy on my bad back.


1 of two sets of 5' ramps. I clamped and welded them back to back, to help keep the bow to a minimum.


What the sides will look like.


For how the sides will work, the each end of the ramps will slide into a channel, there will be two hinged pieces that will swing out of the way to load from the side. The
sections over the wheels and at the rear, will be bolted to the trailer, along with the gas/water can racks, so they can be removed and the trailer can be used as a utility trailer.



Planning on using two of these on each section that hinges, one will pin the section down to the trailer, the other will pin to the ramp.

They are supposed to be 6" pins, will see what they are like when they arrive.

 

[Yankeenorth57]

I had a similar travel trailer frame given to me years ago and I didn't want the long frame length so I ended up cutting the frame just ahead of the front spring mount and then picking up the front section of frame and sliding it back over the top of the axles. I then took and used angle iron to taper the frame from the top section down to the rear of the frame thus giving me a beaver tail effect and ease of loading and unloading, I decked it with wood at first which lasted for years. I later replaced the wood with steel diamond plate that I removed from a customers whare house floor, they had and old wood floor originally and had place the diamond plate over it, They removed that section for their big expansion. I had thousand of miles on that trailer and ended up giving it to a young man who was into sprint car racing and needed sponsors. Your trailer looks great and hope you get years of use from it.