Aluminum Jon Repair

Gary Fowler

Well-known member
Messages
715
Good Post Points
199
That transom support looks stronger than the original. Lots more support resting on a rib that on the floor as originally fabbed. You must be buying that wire by the 50 roll bundle. That is a lot of welding. Are you still pre-heating ahead of welding?
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
I didn't preheat. Bead started cold, but I ran it backwards to start in the v then came back over it working side to side to wet in as best I could with .030 on 1/4". I did find too hot a setting and melted a tip... too low a wire feed for the voltage. Yes, took a bit of wire, roughly 3' of weld in all. Still on my first spool of 5356 though it is getting low along with my 42cf argon tank...
 

Gary Fowler

Well-known member
Messages
715
Good Post Points
199
A little Coleman hand held propane torch would work wonders on that thin aluminum and wouldnt be too intrusive for your work space.
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
I will try some pre-heating on the up-coming mods I'm planning: front deck framing and extending, the 3 other side rib narrowing, rear deck framing, and floor framing. Still have some leaks and cosmetics to attend too first. Found a bunch of leaking rivets by putting water in the boat about 6" deep. There have been a bunch of rivets welded before... May find more once it hits the water.20200711_133053.jpg20200711_135714.jpg20200711_135723.jpg
 

Gary Fowler

Well-known member
Messages
715
Good Post Points
199
I know this defeats your welding but sometimes if you can get to both sides of a rivet, the best way to fix a leaker is just beat it with a hammer a few time while using a heavy object as a backer on the opposite side.
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
I know this defeats your welding but sometimes if you can get to both sides of a rivet, the best way to fix a leaker is just beat it with a hammer a few time while using a heavy object as a backer on the opposite side.
That was my original intent. But, these rivets are all floor rib rivets which will definitely flex so I figured to seal them up for sure. I did reset the rivets that held in the old middle seats... A body hammer set does pretty good on them.JPEG_20200712_121816_350683983285349448.jpg
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
Definitely wish I had a tig setup to weld these rivets. I wouldn't have to grind off so much filler material...

Still haven't tried pre-heating yet. I have a full keel on this jon where most of the rivets that hold it in place leak. I'll have to seal them by welding on the inside of the boat. I'll be breaking out my propane torch and see if I use less wire that way.
 

Yomax4

Well-known member
Messages
169
Good Post Points
52
Location
MN.
As stated above, I did this with an old boat and used a body shop dolly on one side, Squeezed silicone on the other and hit it with a hammer. Actually worked as intended. Another option is the wonder rod you see at fairs. Heat with a little propane and it flows in to stop the leak. I can send send you some to mess with if interested. It would be a quick fix but no way of knowing how long.
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
As stated above, I did this with an old boat and used a body shop dolly on one side, Squeezed silicone on the other and hit it with a hammer. Actually worked as intended. Another option is the wonder rod you see at fairs. Heat with a little propane and it flows in to stop the leak. I can send send you some to mess with if interested. It would be a quick fix but no way of knowing how long.
I haven't had the best of luck with either...
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
Around 50 holes in the front deck alone... be close to a full afternoon of grinder work on this thing once I remove it for bracing... Its why I'm wishing I had a tig; wouldn't have so much welded material to smooth out. I'll be saving up for one... Maybe20200730_183841.jpg
 

Yomax4

Well-known member
Messages
169
Good Post Points
52
Location
MN.
Around 50 holes in the front deck alone... be close to a full afternoon of grinder work on this thing once I remove it for bracing... Its why I'm wishing I had a tig; wouldn't have so much welded material to smooth out. I'll be saving up for one... MaybeView attachment 1204
You have quite a project here. As far a tig goes, It might be a horse a piece on time and grinding. Tig will take a lot longer and will still have material to grind off.
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
This setup should weld up a lot easier than my previous attempt... The cap is is inside the rib...20200803_174609.jpg
 

bplayer405

Well-known member
Messages
211
Good Post Points
55
You are definitely getting better at aluminum welding. Are you preheating?
Ty. I did not preheat these. Picked up a mapp torch hose setup specifically for preheating, but realized I was out of gas for it... My first argon tank (42cf) is down to 750 psi so I'll have to get it filled soon too... did 3 of these ribs yesterday and that little tank went from 1000 psi to 750...
 

Gary Fowler

Well-known member
Messages
715
Good Post Points
199
How much flow are you using. 15-20 CFH should be plenty as long as you are not in a strong wind.
 
Top